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Padstow
Padstow is a working fishing harbour on the west bank of the Camel estuary in north Cornwall, a mile or two from the open sea. Its narrow streets of slate houses wrap around an inner harbour where fishing boats, pleasure cruisers and the Rock ferry come and go with the tide. Across the water are the dunes and sailing beaches of Rock and Daymer Bay; downriver, the estuary opens to the Atlantic past Stepper Point and the notorious Doom Bar sandbank. The town is known for its seafood, its May Day festival and the Camel Trail cycle path.
It suits food lovers, cyclists, families who like gentle estuary beaches, and walkers. In summer it is very busy by day with visitors; in the evening, once the day trippers leave, it is calmer.
Getting there
Padstow lost its railway in 1967, and the line became the Camel Trail. The nearest station today is Bodmin Parkway on the main line from London Paddington, from where buses run to Padstow via Bodmin and Wadebridge. Buses also run from Newquay, which has an airport and a branch line station. By car, leave the A30 near Bodmin or at Indian Queens and follow the A39 and the A389. The main car parks are on the edge of town above the harbour; the harbourside streets are narrow and crowded in summer.
The harbour and the town
The inner harbour is enclosed by a tidal gate that keeps boats afloat at low tide. Around it are pasty shops, chip shops, galleries and pubs, the National Lobster Hatchery, which raises young lobsters for release and explains the fishery, and the departure points for boat trips out to the bay. The town's restaurant scene became famous after chef Rick Stein opened his seafood restaurant here in 1975, and there are now many places to eat, from takeaway fish to fine dining.
Prideaux Place, an Elizabethan manor house above the town with a deer park, is open to visitors on selected days.
The Camel Trail
The Camel Trail is a mostly flat, traffic-free path for walkers and cyclists along the old railway line beside the Camel estuary and river. The stretch from Padstow to Wadebridge is about five and a half miles and is the most popular, with views across the estuary sands and birdlife. The trail continues to Bodmin and inland to Wenfordbridge on the edge of Bodmin Moor, about eighteen miles in total. Bike hire shops cluster near the start of the trail at Padstow and in Wadebridge. In summer the trail can be busy, so ride with care.
The ferry to Rock
The Black Tor ferry crosses the estuary between Padstow and Rock throughout the year, landing at different points depending on the tide. It takes a few minutes. Rock is a sailing and watersports village with expensive holiday homes, sandy beaches and dunes. A walk along the shore leads to Daymer Bay and the little church of St Enodoc, half-buried in the dunes on a golf course, where the poet John Betjeman is buried. Beyond Daymer is Polzeath, a surf beach. A water taxi runs in the evening in summer.
Beaches and walks
- St George's Cove and Harbour Cove: sandy estuary beaches a short walk north of town along the coast path.
- Stepper Point: a headland at the mouth of the estuary with a daymark tower, reached by a walk of about three miles from town.
- Trevone: a sandy bay west of Padstow with rockpools and a natural tidal pool.
- Harlyn Bay, Constantine and Treyarnon: a string of Atlantic beaches with surf, a few minutes' drive west.
- The coast path from Padstow to Trevone (about 5 miles): round Stepper Point, past the collapsed cave called Round Hole, with a bus or taxi back.
May Day: the Obby Oss
On 1 May, Padstow holds its ancient 'Obby 'Oss festival. Two hobby horses, the Old 'Oss and the Blue Ribbon 'Oss, dance through the streets from morning until evening, accompanied by drummers, accordions and singers in white. The town is decorated with greenery and flowers. It is a genuinely local festival with deep roots, and very crowded. If you want to stay in Padstow on May Day, book a long way ahead.
Where to stay
The town has inns, small hotels, guest houses and a large number of holiday cottages, many in old fishermen's houses near the harbour. Larger houses and apartments sit on the hill with estuary views. Rock, across the water, has upmarket holiday homes and a few hotels. Campsites and holiday parks lie inland and near the beaches to the west. Wadebridge, at the other end of the Camel Trail, is a cheaper, practical alternative with supermarkets and pubs.
When to go
Summer and May Day are the busiest times. Spring and autumn are good for cycling and walking, and the restaurants are easier to book. Winter is quiet but the harbour stays open and some restaurants trade year round.
A two-day plan
Day one: hire bikes and cycle the Camel Trail to Wadebridge and back, then walk round the harbour in the evening and eat seafood. Day two: take the ferry to Rock, walk to Daymer Bay and St Enodoc church, return on the ferry, and walk to Stepper Point in the afternoon.
For more of the county see Cornwall; for surf beaches over the border, see Croyde.
Frequently asked questions
How far is it to cycle the Camel Trail?
Padstow to Wadebridge is about five and a half miles each way, flat and traffic-free, and takes about an hour each way at a gentle pace. Wadebridge to Bodmin adds another six miles, and the full trail to Wenfordbridge is about eighteen miles. Bike hire is available at both Padstow and Wadebridge, including children's bikes, trailers and tandems.
How do I get to Rock from Padstow?
Take the Black Tor passenger ferry from Padstow harbour, which runs all year and takes a few minutes. The departure point depends on the tide: at high tide it leaves from the harbour, at low tide from further downstream. In summer a water taxi runs in the evening after the ferry stops. By car, the journey round via Wadebridge takes around twenty-five minutes.
Is Padstow good for families?
Yes. The estuary beaches near town are sheltered, the Camel Trail is ideal for family bike rides, and the National Lobster Hatchery is popular with children. Beaches west of town, such as Trevone and Harlyn, have rockpools and surf. The town gets very crowded in summer, so arrive early to park.
Can I visit Padstow without a car?
Yes. Take the train to Bodmin Parkway and a bus to Padstow via Wadebridge, or a bus from Newquay. Once in Padstow, you can walk, cycle the Camel Trail and take the ferry to Rock. Some beaches to the west are reachable by bus or on foot along the coast path.
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