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St Ives
St Ives is a fishing town turned artists' colony on the north coast of west Cornwall, piled up around a harbour on the edge of St Ives Bay. Its narrow streets of granite cottages, white-washed houses and steep alleys run down to four sandy beaches facing in different directions, so there is usually a sheltered one whatever the wind. The quality of the light drew painters and sculptors from the late nineteenth century onwards, and the town's galleries, studios and Tate gallery are as much a part of a visit as the sea.
It suits beach holidays, art lovers, couples and walkers. It is very busy in summer, and the old town is not designed for cars, so plan how you will arrive.
Getting there
By train, St Ives is reached by a short branch line from St Erth, on the main line between Truro and Penzance. The branch is one of the most scenic in Britain, running along the cliffs above Carbis Bay with views across the bay to Godrevy lighthouse. Direct trains from London Paddington to St Erth take about five and a half hours; the sleeper to Penzance also stops there.
By car, follow the A30 to the St Erth roundabout, then the A3074. Do not try to drive into the old town: the streets are narrow, steep and crowded, and parking is very limited. Use one of the car parks on the edge of town, such as Trenwith, which has a path and seasonal shuttle down to the centre, or leave the car at the park and ride at St Erth station or Lelant Saltings and take the train in. The bus station is near the harbour.
The beaches
- Porthmeor: the big north-facing beach below Tate St Ives, with surf, lifeguards in summer and a café on the sand.
- Porthminster: a long sheltered beach near the station, with soft sand, calm water and views across the bay.
- Harbour beach: the beach in the harbour itself, with boats on the sand at low tide.
- Porthgwidden: a small, sheltered cove by the Island, popular with families.
- Carbis Bay: a separate sandy bay a mile or so along the coast, with its own station.
Art and galleries
Tate St Ives, above Porthmeor beach, shows modern and contemporary art with a focus on the artists connected to the town. The building was extended a few years ago with a large new gallery. The Barbara Hepworth Museum and Sculpture Garden, managed by Tate, is the sculptor's former home and studio, where her bronzes stand among trees and flowers just as she arranged them. A combined ticket covers both.
The Leach Pottery, founded by Bernard Leach and Shoji Hamada in 1920, was one of the most influential studio potteries in the world and is still a working pottery with a museum. Dozens of independent galleries line Fore Street, the harbourfront and the alleys known collectively as Downalong. The St Ives Society of Artists exhibits in a former church, the Mariners Gallery.
Walks
- The Island: a grassy headland between Porthmeor and Porthgwidden with the small chapel of St Nicholas and views in every direction. Easy, and good for sunset.
- St Ives to Carbis Bay and Lelant: an easy coast path walk past Porthminster, with the train back.
- St Ives to Zennor (about 6 miles): one of the toughest and most beautiful sections of the South West Coast Path, with rocky scrambles, wild headlands and seals. The bus returns from Zennor in season; check times before setting out.
Where to stay
Accommodation in the old town is mostly self-catering cottages and apartments, often in former fishermen's houses with tiny rooms and steep stairs, and almost never with parking. The hills above the town, around the Terrace and Trelyon, have hotels, guest houses and larger apartments with views across the bay, at the cost of a steep walk. Carbis Bay and Lelant have hotels and holiday homes, plus their own stations. Prices are among the highest in Cornwall in July and August, and good places book a long way ahead.
When to go
July and August are crowded, with long queues for the car parks and busy beaches. June and September are often ideal. The St Ives September Festival brings music, art and poetry to venues around town. Winter is quiet, with galleries open and storms on Porthmeor, but some restaurants close.
Food
St Ives has a strong food scene, from pasties and fish and chips on the harbour to beach cafés and smart seafood restaurants. Watch out for the gulls: they are bold and will take food from your hand. Many places book up in the evening during the summer, so reserve a table.
A two-day plan
Day one: arrive by the branch line, walk the harbour and Fore Street, visit Tate St Ives and the Hepworth Museum, and watch the sunset from the Island. Day two: walk the coast path to Zennor, or spend a lazy morning at Porthminster and visit the Leach Pottery in the afternoon.
Practical notes
- Dogs are restricted on some beaches in summer; check the signs.
- The steep streets are hard work with pushchairs and heavy luggage.
- For the wider area, see the Cornwall guide. For another harbour town on the north coast, see Padstow.
Frequently asked questions
Where should I park in St Ives?
Avoid driving into the old town. The easiest option is the park and ride at St Erth station or Lelant Saltings, from where the train takes you along the coast into St Ives. In town, long-stay car parks such as Trenwith sit above the centre with a steep walk down. In summer, car parks fill early, and the narrow streets are crowded with pedestrians.
Which beach in St Ives is best?
It depends on the day. Porthmeor is best for surf and has the Tate above it. Porthminster is sheltered and calm, ideal for families. Porthgwidden is small and protected. The harbour beach is lovely at low tide for watching boats. When the wind is from the north, the south-facing beaches are more sheltered, and vice versa.
Do I need to book Tate St Ives?
It is advisable in summer and during school holidays, when timed tickets can sell out. Combined tickets include the Barbara Hepworth Museum and Sculpture Garden. Tate members and some other groups enter free. Check the gallery's website for opening hours and any closures for exhibition changes.
Is St Ives good for families?
Yes, with some caveats. The beaches are excellent and the harbour is fun, but the steep, narrow streets are hard with pushchairs, the town is crowded in summer, and accommodation can be expensive. Gulls are bold around food. Families often stay in Carbis Bay or Lelant and come into town on the train.
Guide me to UK is an independent information site. We do not own hotels or take bookings. Fares, opening hours and timetables change, so confirm them before you travel. Last updated 1 November 2026.